Finger 8 word winding


Photo: Climbing Magazine

Climbing finger injury is most common when using Crimping grips. Crimping grips are methods used to climb small Edges or Crimpers, such as icons. There are two causes of injury: the intensity exceeds its own load, and the finger warm-up is insufficient. This kind of strain is usually a tendon between the palm and the first knuckle. Sometimes it is also between the first or second knuckle. The third knuckle pain is less likely to occur. Once the finger is injured, it will be injured later. Opportunities will increase greatly, and they will continue to ache.


The best way to warm up your fingers is to climb a simple route. If you can't warm up before the game, use a grip or Finger board instead. When a finger injury has already occurred, the only way to recover is to rest and not climb. However, it is not easy for the finger to recover. At least three months' rest is necessary. Of course, it is impossible for a climber to rest for three months, so there is a more effective adhesive tape method available.


8 words around:
First of all, prepare a wide (no cut) first-aid tape, and the Western pharmacy is selling. Do not rub powder before winding, so as not to affect the winding effect.

Step1. Place the first and second knuckle areas of the injured finger at 90 degrees. Do not straighten during winding. (Figure)
Step2. Tear the tape to the proper width (too narrow will result in insufficient force, and too wide to make it difficult to wrap the finger).
Step3. Take the first knuckle of the finger as the starting point, and wrap it around with a figure of eight. The tape crosses between the first and second knuckles (pictured) and winds 3 to 5 times (depending on each person).
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note:

A. Wound with a figure of 8 must be under the principle of not affecting the blood circulation of the fingers, try to wrap tightly to fix it to your fingers. When the winding is completed, the fingers should be 90 to 120 degrees (you can't straighten your output). All wrapped around your fingers naturally into a half-shaped fist. It will not stretch until the finger is stressed (when climbing), and if the finger is fully straightened, this kind of winding law has no meaning.

B. If the ring finger is injured, you can wrap the ring finger together with the little finger.
C. The 8-character entangling method can be used to increase the strength of your fingers by 25% (if the method is correct, besides avoiding injuries and injuring you).
D. It is advisable to take a break just after injury. The word 8 is used for rehabilitation.

This method was taught by a rock friend in South Africa. Climbing was also published before.

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